I’m sorry you are not seeing any benefit (negative benefit??) from having solar - have you spoken to the installer? I would expect mid-Winter in PA would be fairly minimal production, which 300 kWh clearly is for an 8 kW system. I would go back and look at the proposal that you were given - did it have estimated monthly production figures? If so, you might compare the 300 kWh to what was modeled. Perhaps the 50% reduction isn’t predicted for every month, but for the year as a whole? In which case, you might see greater than 50% reductions in the peak summer months.
In any event, give the installer a call and see what they will do for you.
Best of luck…
JimI would note that in the first instance it would make sense to ask these questions of the company that you picked to do the install!
That said, let me see if I can answer some of these. I don’t know anything about your usage, so it is impossible to say whether it is “worth it” to add solar. You said 12 panels, so if they are 400 Watt panels, that is a 4.8 kW system, that on average would produce around 7,200 kWh/year. If it is covering 70% of your usage, that would mean you are using roughly 10,300 kWh/year - is that correct? The price seems reasonable, coming in at $3.43/Watt - assuming 400 W panels.
Because you will be under the current net metering rules - and a time-of-use rate - energy you export to the grid during the middle of the day is compensated at a lower rate than energy you import from the grid during peak rates at 4-9 p.m. (The only way around that is to add an energy storage system - i.e., a battery - but that would nearly double to cost of the system.)
Good luck…
Jim
Glad you liked the post!
If you are in SCE territory I don’t believe they will let you switch back, but if you can where you are, absolutely do so.
Adding more panels is an option, but you might also want to focus on how you are using energy - can you switch high energy loads out of the peak TOU period? For example, if you have an EV, program it to not charge during that peak period (in SCE territory, 4-9 p.m.) - that will help a lot. Dishwashers and clothes washers also generally have a delayed start option that can be helpful.
Best regards…
Jim$60k sounds pretty high for 20 panels and one battery. What percentage of your produced energy will be exported? The battery will help with that, since you will charge the battery before exporting surplus energy, but if that percentage is high, you might do better with a smaller system. (It is not uncommon for a solar power system to export 50% of its production or more.)
I know very little about the deregulated mess that is the Texas energy market, but I found this article interesting: Going solar in Texas without net metering. I don’t know if you have access to any of the four retail electricity providers that do offer net metering, but if so, you might want to switch to one of them.
Best of luck!
Darren -
Thank you for the kind words. This post drives more traffic than pretty much every other post I’ve written in 12 years of writing this blog - clearly it hits home with a lot of people.
The issue around NEM 3.0 in California is nothing less than an existential threat to the industry. That is why hundreds of people stayed on hold for hours to tell the CPUC that this was going in the wrong direction. We need to make it easier and more rewarding for everyone to add solar. Hopefully they got the message!
Best regards…
JimThank you for your kind words. I agree completely that unscrupulous salespeople - and especially the companies that hire them - are a blight on our industry.
I don’t know where you are or when you signed your contract, but for the past few years in California solar contracts have to include a disclosure document that identifies the total cost of the project - including all financing costs - over the lifetime of the project. That doesn’t solve all problems, but it is a start.
Feel free to contact me directly.
Best regards…
JimVickson -
I cannot really advise you directly, since I’m unfamiliar with the details of the market in New York. What I would suggest is you contact an installer who is NABCEP certified. Here’s a link to the list of such installers in New York state:
https://www.nabcep.org/nabcep-professionals/?last_name=&country=USA&state=NY&certification_type=PV
Get multiple quotes, and ask a lot of questions. Ask for references and talk to them. Take your time, this is a big investment and you want to get it right.
Good luck!
Jim
I don’t know how things work in TX, but generally if you build a home in a city area, you will be required to be tied into the local utilities. You could certainly size a PV system large enough to cover most, if not all of your usage, but you would need a storage system as well to cover night time, as well as stormy days. And you would still end up paying access fees to the utility, even if you rarely pull energy from the grid.
Designing a storage system to support you during an outage like what is going on in TX right now is a complicated process. While a home of the size you describe will likely use 35-45 kWh/day - more if you have lots of toys - in an emergency you are not going to try and power all of that, unless money is no object.
Instead, you would want to pare down to just the absolutely necessary loads: refrigerator, lights, maybe a space heater if the gas goes out.
Good luck!
Jim